39° 20′ 40.7508” N – (39.344653) – 2° 59′ 4.218” E (2.984505)
This beach is one of those ‘must’ beaches in an often overlooked corner of Majorca. The beach is a 2 km long stretch of white sand between two headlands. On the south-eastern side of one of the most picturesque islands I have ever been on. The nudist section again is in the middle of the beach, which is a bit of walk to get to (they always are).
The beach is a bit of an effort to get to and in my opinion it’s best hiring a car. It’s about a 40 minute drive from Palma but you should consider taking the ‘long way’ around to see the other parts of the island. Mallorca is quite a large island with a stunning mountain range on the north side of the island that plunges into the sea with a series of dramatic rocky coves and crags. To the south it opens into an undulating plain extending to the series of beaches to the southern part of the island.
The island offers a range of non-beach activities including hiking, cycling and other out-door pursuits. We took the hire car option and managed to see most of the island, doing our usual tourist day, sightseeing in the morning and beach in the afternoon.
The island is the holiday hot-spot for many northern Europeans and the flights in and out of Palma reflect this, servicing most major ports.
The beach itself is between the small villages of Ses Covetes and Sant Jordi, with low dunes covered in scrub behind the beach. There are some parking areas behind these dunes available at 6 or so Euro for the day. There are tow-away zones for a kilometre or so behind the beach on the roads we used – stressing the number of people who visit the area.
There is no resort associated with the beach.
This beach has been referred to as the most beautiful clothing optional beach in the world, with crystal clear and very clean water that sparkles, so much so that during summer its pristine water with fine white sand, it’s so white it’s like they bleach the stuff. The beach is one that you would often see on a travel brochure and does have a certain Caribbean feel. The water is not very deep and is suitable for children.
This beach has good facilities with showers at parts of the beach, kiosks and restaurants, a lifeguard and first aid station, and euro style areas of umbrellas and beach lounges for hire. (15 euro a day for a pair of lounges under an umbrella.) There are also a couple of people walking the beach offering a massage. Despite this it’s not very commercialised but does become very popular and busy during peak holiday times. So much so that some days you can’t see the sand for the people. There are likely to be a host of very large vessels moored in the bay as well.
You will also be intrigued by the military concrete emplacements on the beach from yesteryear. These were constructed in the 1940’s under the instruction of General Franco who was paranoid of an invasion by the Allies due to his allegiance to the Germans and Italians. No invasion came and the bunkers remain as a reminder of these times. There are some trails that lead into the scrublands behind the beach which allow a short cut the parking areas.
I’d suggest to fully experience this beach you would be best to visit it during the summer months as outside these you may be very disappointed finding a windswept, deserted and un-kept beach. At certain times of the year tiny black insects also visit the beach, and have an enormous appetite for human flesh.
The crowd especially during the high season will be holiday makers and be family groups, couples, singles, and groups of both sexes, with a diverse age range, with most being nude in the central part of the beach. There is a beach community made up of a few regulars that add to a great atmosphere.
If driving from Palma use the Ma-19 to Campos and the Ma-6014 to Sa Rapita or Ma-6040 to Sant Jordi and follow the signposts to the various parking areas. From Palma there is a bus service that runs 3 times a day to the nearby town of Sa Rapita. Es Trenc.
But the island has so much more to offer than just the beach, and hiking through the hills would be something worth considering, and for the budding driving enthusiast ….
If driving through the mountains, this should best be considered by a driver of confidence or even over confidence. The roads although sealed are a series of narrow tight hairpins that wind around the mountains. The maps show these roads as a squiggle, many blind corners with livestock, push-bikes or walkers also using the road and can present to be a series of frustrating obstacles. Much care is needed and the gutters are often deep and sudden. The roads appear to be a widened cart track and at times are a struggle for 2 way traffic, this is compounded by buses and the odd truck. There was the odd small cycling peloton which were climbing the mountains.
So, such roads are probably best for the more experienced driver, it’s a fun time pushing your car around these hairpins, and a great way to practice your cornering, quick gear changes and much braking. Hiring a GPS is a necessity. Passengers of such a journey with a driver of confidence may consider taking the option of the ‘rally co-driver kit’, including a racing harness and helmet to prevent injury from the constant bagging of their head on the passenger window. The upwards journey nothing less than a fantastic opportunity for a hill climb. The hills are covered in terraces and small farms of olive groves, citrus and other produce. We were fortunate that the hire car company didn’t inspect the car too closely and find the fingernail imprints in the passenger’s door handle.
This day the weather was against us so in the mountains we encountered, rain, sleet, fog and mist. Thus making the driving even more exciting or concerning for the passenger, being mindful that its left hand drive, making the driving all the more fun and challenging.
However, I do encourage safe and sensible driving at all times & remind you of the cost associated with any damage that can be charged by hire car companies.
Out of the mountains the plain is more like semi-desert Australia with red soils and small scrubs divided into farms. Small towns dot the plain with large churches dominating the towns. A couple of major highways also cross the island basically radiating from Palma.